A Global Field Guide to Sausages: From Merguez to Chorizo
I recently saw “Sausage Party,” Seth Rogen’s provocative and profane new animated film in which groceries grapple with their grim fate.
After an orgy scene illustrating what carnal pleasure looks like for anthropomorphized encased meat, I wasn’t sure how long it would be before I’d want to eat sausage again. Turns out, my loss of appetite lasted less than 24 hours. The next day, at the Faena Hotel on Miami Beach, I found myself sitting across from Francis Mallmann, the Argentine chef known for mastery of live-fire cooking, as he extolled the virtues of grilled chorizo—succulent with fat, punchy with garlic and wine. At Los Fuegos by Francis Mallmann, his restaurant in the hotel, he serves the sausage on crusty bread as a choripán.
This sandwich is to Argentina what the hot dog is to the U.S.: both iconic and wholly unpretentious, and therefore an unexpected offering on such a luxurious menu (try it as a prelude to the Madagascar giant prawns). Slather on some herby chimichurri, and you might as well be on a street corner in Buenos Aires. The contradiction was, to Mr. Mallmann, apt.
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